BITE ME

Gone Wishing
BY JASON SHEEHAN
Jason.Sheehan@westword.com
...to Westword's site

........And that's not the only reason to head to Parker. I got a letter the other day from Jack Goldsmith, restaurateur, touting the six-month-old Junz, a Japanese-French fusion joint at 1005 South Dransfedt Road. "I have lived in the Parker area for the past seven years," Goldsmith wrote. "I am blown away having a restaurant of this caliber in my sleepy little country town.... They are worthy of local and regional recognition. I have from day one had excellent food offerings and service. I will put them up against all the Japanese-French restaurants in the region and even the famous master sushi chef Nobu Matsuhisa. We visit this establishment weekly, as do many other local 'foodies' who appreciate the talent. I have been trained as a chef and have close to thirty years' experience in the restaurant industry. I am not much of a letter writer; this is actually the first time I have been compelled to write to a food critic concerning a fellow chef.

"We all know how difficult it is to open and successfully run a profitable restaurant in our current economic times," continued Goldsmith. "It is always nice to see a talented operator go into suburbia and try to persuade Americana to dine at an independent, high-quality operation in lieu of another national chain-fabricated venue."

The chef in question is Jun Makino, a protegé of the late Jean-Louis Palladin. Along with sushi chef Ben Ngyuen, he's bringing a little bit of the sushi-fusion freak show to Parker. Diver scallops and sea snails? Absolutely. Tempura and tonkatsu? Bring it on. Halibut belly? Foie gras in a shallot-thyme marinade? Now you're talking. There are also rumors of toro sashimi on the premises, and a secret stash of fresh wasabe held in secret for the regulars -- but I'll leave that for you to discover.


westword.com | originally published: August 28, 2003