Gone Wishing
BY JASON SHEEHAN
Jason.Sheehan@westword.com
...to
Westword's site
........And
that's not the only reason to head to Parker. I got a letter the
other day from Jack Goldsmith, restaurateur, touting the six-month-old
Junz, a Japanese-French fusion joint at 1005 South Dransfedt Road.
"I have lived in the Parker area for the past seven years,"
Goldsmith wrote. "I am blown away having a restaurant of this
caliber in my sleepy little country town.... They are worthy of
local and regional recognition. I have from day one had excellent
food offerings and service. I will put them up against all the Japanese-French
restaurants in the region and even the famous master sushi chef
Nobu Matsuhisa. We visit this establishment weekly, as do many other
local 'foodies' who appreciate the talent. I have been trained as
a chef and have close to thirty years' experience in the restaurant
industry. I am not much of a letter writer; this is actually the
first time I have been compelled to write to a food critic concerning
a fellow chef.
"We all know how difficult it is to open and successfully
run a profitable restaurant in our current economic times,"
continued Goldsmith. "It is always nice to see a talented operator
go into suburbia and try to persuade Americana to dine at an independent,
high-quality operation in lieu of another national chain-fabricated
venue."
The chef in question is Jun Makino, a protegé of the late
Jean-Louis Palladin. Along with sushi chef Ben Ngyuen, he's bringing
a little bit of the sushi-fusion freak show to Parker. Diver scallops
and sea snails? Absolutely. Tempura and tonkatsu? Bring it on. Halibut
belly? Foie gras in a shallot-thyme marinade? Now you're talking.
There are also rumors of toro sashimi on the premises, and a secret
stash of fresh wasabe held in secret for the regulars -- but I'll
leave that for you to discover.
westword.com | originally published: August 28, 2003
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